What is SAM (SMV) and how to calculate it

Standard Allowed Minute is the base of every target, efficiency and cost in a garment factory. Here is how it is built, step by step.

2 min read · Updated 15 Sep 2026 · By Md. Saiful Islam

SAM (Standard Allowed Minute), also called SMV (Standard Minute Value), is the time a trained operator needs to complete one operation at a normal pace, including allowances for fatigue and personal needs. Almost every number an industrial engineer uses - targets, efficiency, line balancing, costing - starts from SAM.

Why SAM matters

  • Targets: how many pieces a line should make per hour.
  • Efficiency: how well the line used its available minutes.
  • Costing: labour cost per garment = SAM × cost per minute.
  • Planning: how many lines and days an order needs.

The three building blocks

SAM is built from three parts:

PartWhat it means
Observed timeThe average time you measure with a stopwatch
RatingHow fast the operator worked compared with a normal pace (100%)
AllowanceExtra time for fatigue, personal needs and small delays

Formula: Basic time = Observed time × Rating ÷ 100. SAM = Basic time × (1 + Allowance ÷ 100).

Worked example: attaching a pocket

You time an operator for 10 cycles. The average is 30 seconds (0.50 minutes). She works slightly faster than normal, so you rate her at 110%. The factory uses a 15% allowance.

  1. Basic time = 0.50 × 110 ÷ 100 = 0.55 min
  2. SAM = 0.55 × 1.15 = 0.633 min

Add the SAM of every operation in the garment and you get the garment SAM. A basic T-shirt is often around 5-8 minutes; a formal shirt may be 18-25 minutes, depending on the design.

Two ways to get SAM

  • Time study: measure real operators with a stopwatch, then apply rating and allowance (as above).
  • Predetermined time systems such as GSD: build the time from standard motion codes, without depending on one operator's speed. This gives more consistent values across factories.

Common mistakes

  • Timing too few cycles. Take at least 10 good cycles and remove abnormal ones.
  • Rating every operator at 100%. Rating is a skill; practise with training videos.
  • Forgetting machine delays and bundle handling in the allowance.
  • Using the buyer's costing SAM as the production target without checking it on the floor.

Tip: Keep one SAM per operation in your operation bulletin and reuse it everywhere, so targets, efficiency and costing all use the same number.

Get one practical IE tip every week

Join IE and production professionals learning with in2eff.